Romancing the Sewn

As it happens in costuming, I stumbled into turn-of-the 20th century completely by accident. I began collecting La Mode Illustrée issues from the 1930s, then the 1920s, and then I got curious about 1910s and eventually 1900s. I would find an issue with a coat that I liked, a skirt that was interesting, and a year later wound up with a shamefully large collection of issues from 1900-1904, a timeframe that I have absolutely no experience in.

For those of you who haven’t heard of La Mode Illustrée before, it was a French-language pattern magazine that ran weekly between the mid-19th century and early 20th century. Most magazines came with a color gravure (illustration) and a large pattern sheet from which to make a selection of styles shown in the magazine. The patterns included womenswear, undergarments, childrens’ outfits, bags, and embroidery layouts. Some of my favorite finds include riding or hunting outfits, Edwardian swimsuits, and shoe bags with little embroidered shoes.

Costume College 2017 is quickly approaching, and I’ve decided that this is the perfect excuse to dive into the deep end and make a 1903 ball gown from the ground up. This page will serve as an index to log each project as they are completed.

I’ll be making the following components from original patterns and directions:
*une chemise de bal (a ball slip/chemise)
*un pantalon élégant (elegant drawers)
*un jupon elegante (an elegant petticoat)
*un jupon en drap (a petticoat made from sheeting)
*une robe de bal (ball gown)

Additionally, I’ll be making these necessities not patterned from La Mode Illustrée:
*an Edwardian Bust Improver
*an Edwardian Hip Improver
*Early 20th century corset

Hope you will follow along and enjoy the process!

–Erin