Sophia here! It’s been a long time since we last made a post. I am going to try and participate in more HSM challenges this year I even have them planned out in a spread sheet. So for the first challenge of the year Firsts & Lasts I’m submitting my new linen chemise and fully boned stays with stomacher.
The Challenge: #1 Firsts & Lasts
Materials: Vintge block printed cotton from Cheney Brothers a mill that was full operational from 1833-1929, it continued to produce industrial fabrics after the Great Depression. The rest of the stays are 100% cotton coutil lining, kid skin leather binding and stomacher.The chemise is 100% linen.
Pattern: I used American Duchess for Simplicity 8162 as a base for the stays. I dropped the armscye, removed the straps, fully boned them, and changed the criss cross lacing to spiral lacing. For the chemise I started by laying out the simplicity pattern but decided to make it more traditionally out of rectangles with under arm gussets.
Year: the intention of the American Duchess pattern is to fit the time period from Outlander so 1740, but I think they create a sutible silhouette into the 1770s.
Notions: All my thread and lacing were stash so I can’t count for their fiber content. I used industrial zip ties for the boning to simulate whale bone.
How historically accurate is it? The chemise gets a much higher rating as it’s hand sewn although the mystery thread knocks it down to a 90% . The stays are a mixture of hand and machine sewing, I think they would be passable in their own era so 70% .
Hours to Complete: The chemise took less than 10 hours, the stays took a long time over the course of a few months.
First worn: Today for photos, but I hope to wear them to an event next weekend.
Total Cost: The stays were around $30 and the chemise around $15.
From top right clock wise; Memory of the Netherlands, Augusta Auctions, Met Museum, Met Museum.
I’m going to take a chance to have a little rant, can professional Museums and Auction Houses learn to properly display and lace stays! The Augusta Auction pair are backwards and incorrectly laced, the navy blue set from the Met are also incorrectly laced. Spiral lacing is more attractive and balanced for both sets.
Can’t wait to share my next challenge I’ve already started!